Chasing sunset for the Soul, Jeju (Day 4)
Another sunny and bright morning, day four of our slow-living trip in Jeju.
Despite the breezy and chilly air outside, the warmth inside the house worked quietly overnight. Our laundry from yesterday had dried perfectly, right on time. A small, practical comfort that made the morning feel even more settled and unhurried.
It’s moments like these that remind me how slowing down allows you to notice the simple things working just as they should.
I brewed myself a cup of coffee (decaffeinated) and settled into my daily ritual on finalizing the itinerary for the day. Yes, I planned this trip day by day, but each morning calls for a gentle refresh. Objectives can shift with circumstances: a change in mood, a sudden urge, the weather outside, or simply how the day feels.
Planning, in this way, isn’t about control. It’s about creating space and leaving room for the trip to unfold naturally. On an impromptu whim, I booked a mother-of-pearl craft-making experience for 2:00 PM tomorrow.
This morning, we decided to stop by 세화민속오일장 (Sehwa Folk Market), 1500-43 Sehwa-ri, Gujwa-eup, 특별자치도, Jeju-si, Jeju-do, South Korea, hoping to find classic Korean street food like tteokbokki and sundae. Our excitement slowly built as we approached.
But just as it peaked, disappointment arrived just as quickly, the lights were off today, and the market was closed.
After doing a bit more research, I realized that the market only operates on dates that are multiples of five; on the 5th, 10th, 15th, and so on. I had completely forgotten that traditional Korean markets follow their own rhythm and schedule, unlike supermarkets that are usually open every day.
It felt like a gentle reminder that some places don’t bend to convenience. They move to an older, steadier cadence, one that asks you to arrive at the right time, not just any time.
Looking on the bright side, we managed to spot bhc, a popular Korean fried chicken chain, on our way to the market. We had been trying to find one since yesterday evening!
Not for lunch this time, as I already had a lunch venue planned, but I’m sure it will find its way into one of our upcoming meals. A small win that adds a bit of excitement to the day’s plans.
So we head for lunch at what I can only describe as a “relative’s house.” 수니테이블, 1544-2 Hado-ri, Gujwa-eup, 특별자치도 Jeju-si, Jeju-do, South Korea, tucked away in a small lane, the place felt less like a restaurant and more like someone’s home; quiet, unassuming, and comforting the moment we stepped in.
It was the kind of place that doesn’t announce itself, but welcomes you as if you belong.
Living up to the image of a traditional home, we enjoyed a simple yet delicious meal prepared by an elderly couple running the outlet. There was no rush; each dish arrived thoughtfully, slow-cooked and served with sincerity.
I’ve never been fond of sesame leaf (perilla, or kkaennip), a fragrant Asian herb from the mint family that Koreans often enjoy. But paired with Sunni Gamjatang, fresh Jeju black pork and rice, my opinion completely changed. The combination was unexpectedly delightful, turning a familiar dislike into a newfound appreciation.
We managed to satisfy our craving for authentic Korean local food, tteokbokki, at the eatery making up for the missed opportunity when the traditional market was closed.
Grateful for the sunshine and a satisfying lunch, we set off to continue our day with a short hike up Jimibong Volcanic Cone, ready to savor the views and the calm pace.
This volcanic cone is located to the east of the entrance to Jongdal Village. The main peak (top) of the ridge is the eastern peak, which is in the shape of a cone. When seen from the north, the volcanic cone is made up of two peaks, and Hado-ri Changheung-dong Fish Farm can be found on the northwestern foot. (source: visitjeju.net)
Our walk was shorter than planned. In under 20 minutes, we decided to let go of the ambition to reach the peak, choosing instead to simply enjoy the moment along the way.
We made our way to 아날로그 타운 (Analog Town), 907번지 Hado-ri, Gujwa-eup, 특별자치도, Jeju-si, Jeju-do, South Korea, exploring the shops, picking up a few gifts and some stickers along the way.
In person, the place looked a bit more rundown than the pictures I had seen online, but it still had its own charm and character to discover.
After a short drive, we arrived at 하도리 철새도래지 (Jeju Hadori Migratory Bird Sanctuary), 53-2 Hadori, Gujwa-eup, Jeju-si, Jeju. The area has been designated as a special protection zone under the Jeju Special Self-Governing Province and International Free City Special Act.
Migratory birds have fascinating patterns: summer migratory birds breed on the Korean Peninsula and spend winter in places like China, Cambodia, and Vietnam before returning in spring. Winter migratory birds, on the other hand, breed in colder northern regions such as Siberia and the Manchurian Plains, migrating south for wintering, food, and mating before returning to their breeding grounds.(source: https://ko.wikipedia.org/)
We spent a peaceful afternoon here, enjoying at the wilderness, gazing at flocks in flight and capturing photos against the sanctuary’s stunning backdrop. A quiet, grounding experience that allowed us to connect with nature and the rhythm of life beyond human schedules.
After backtracking to pick up my car with my son, whilst I left my wife to wander along a nearby beach at her own pace, I found myself driving behind a lorry with a horse tied to it, galloping along the road to match the vehicle’s speed. It was my first time witnessing something so uniquely Jeju, unexpected and surreal.
At the same time, I couldn’t help but feel concerned, hoping the horse wouldn’t get hurt in the process. I’m sure many animal lovers would feel uneasy and strongly object to such a sight. It was one of those moments that left me both intrigued and unsettled, lingering in my thoughts long after.
After the awe-inspiring afternoon at the sanctuary, a café stop felt like the perfect way to pause, savor the moment, and treat ourselves for what we had experienced.
We dropped by 모뉴에트 (Monuet), 23 Jongdaldong-gil, Gujwa-eup, Jeju-si, Jeju-do, South Korea, a charming café filled with character. Various props, amplifiers, speakers, and guitars; are displayed throughout, creating a cozy, music-filled atmosphere where you can enjoy a variety of drinks and desserts.
Among the signature treats is Monuet’s Hallasan Canelé, a creative twist on the classic French pastry. Instead of rum, it uses Hallasan Soju, Jeju’s iconic spirit, resulting in a crispy exterior with a perfectly moist interior. A small indulgence that makes the café experience truly unique. (source: visitjeju.net)
We spent some time at the café playing UNO cards, with gentle oldies music and warm light all around. Just a normal day, yet somehow magical, the music was with us as we played UNO at the café, soft oldies filling the warm light around us, helping us relax and savor the moment.
We took a five-minute stroll across a carrot plantation before reaching a bookstore, where I had hoped to find a few unique designer merchandise items. Instead, we were greeted by shelves upon shelves of Korean books.
We made up for it by lingering a little longer along the way; taking a closer look at unharvested carrots soaking up the sunlight, their green tops swaying in the cool, breezy air.
The sight alone felt fresh and refreshing, reminding me how crisp and invigorating these carrots can taste much like the juice I enjoyed the night before.
Throughout the stroll, we didn’t actually see any carrots themselves. I can imagine that when I mention “carrot admiration,” you picture bright orange roots scattered everywhere on the ground. In reality, it was just the greens swaying in the breeze still beautiful in their own way, but not quite the image you might have had in mind.
After our time among the carrots, we made our way to the next stop, Hadori Beach, our time to soak in the sight and sounds of the coast.
On the way to our stops, we paused by the open space beside 토끼썸 (Tokkisseom) for a quick photo. Just take a look at the picture below, and you’ll see why we couldn’t resist stopping.
Not long after, we arrived at Hado-ri Port; and stopped in front of 별방진 (Byeolbangjin Fortress), 3354 Hado-ri, Gujwa-eup, Jeju-si, Jeju-do, South Korea, where there were plenty of parking spaces.
My son and I dashed across the port, braving the strong wind, to snap a photo with the landmark signs; a perfectly touristy move, but why not? After all, we were tourists.
We lingered at 별방진 (Byeolbangjin Fortress), taking the time to understand its history and significance.
Byeolbangjin Fortress was designated as a Jeju Monument on April 3, 1973. The fortress is about 950 meters in circumference. The oval fortress was built in consideration of the location’s topography having a higher terrain in the southern part and a lower terrain in the northern part. Of all the fortresses in Jeju, Byeolbangjin Fortress is in relatively good shape. The fortress is also an important example of how fortresses in Jeju were built and in what scale. (source: https://english.visitkorea.or.kr/)
By now, we were approaching last light, we decided to make a pit-stop at the supermarket opposite the Fried Chicken Shop we spotted this morning before heading back to our Airbnb and prepare our own version of a Korean dinner.
The menu for the night was home-cooked Spam & Kimchi fried rice with crispy Korean Fried Chicken, a potent combination we fell in love with during our last trip to Jeju in December 2024.
It felt almost fated to recreate this meal, bringing back familiar flavors and memories, and adding a comforting close to the day.
Finally, we arrived at the supermarket, NH Hanaro Mart (Nonghyup), 151-4 Pyeongdae-ri, Gujwa-eup, Jeju-si, Jeju-do, South Korea, While we couldn’t find our familiar brand of kimchi fried rice, it was fun to explore a new option. We also picked up Spam and more kimchi for the main course, along with a packet of seasoned seaweed.
Next, we headed to the newly opened bhc, 16 Sepyeonghang-ro, Gujwa-eup, Jeju-si, Jeju-do, South Korea right across the supermarket. We chose the boneless chicken and waited about 20 minutes for it. While waiting, I took the opportunity to update Google Maps, hoping to help fellow fried chicken lovers who, like us, struggled to locate one the night before.
All set, after a quick stir upon reaching the accommodation, dinner was served, we enjoyed our dinner to the fullest, a quiet satisfaction settling in. With coffee (decaffeinated) & juices in our hands, we cuddled in front of the TV again, enjoying YouTube videos, conversation, and laughter, a slow, simple yet comforting way to pause and truly savor the close of the day.
Leave a Reply